What I am about to say does not just apply to Tag Heuer Link Automatic Chronograph. However, it might be something you want to be aware of before you decide to buy this watch. When I was researching for this watch, all I could find on the net were watch sellers (in thousands, no less!) and I was disappointed with info available. So, I want to share the info I have collected so it might benefit someone else in a similar situation.
Firstly, all mechanical watches (every brand, not just Heuer) are less accurate than quartz watches (electronic, battery operated type). The Tag Heuer Link Automatic Chronograph, which contains Calibre 16 movements (also known as Valjoux 7750 or ETA 7750 – just different name from different manufacturers) have been made from 1973. I was unable to find any information that mechanism (movements) have been updated since 1973 but I have read that many other brands ‘cosmetically’ modify this movement to suit their usage.
There is not much to say about the case. When looking at the photo of this watch taken from an angle, you will notice that the bezel-part looks like it is just sitting on top of the case. Almost like a glass ‘lid’ on a scientific container. One could expect the bezel to open with a push of a button. I guess diver’s bezel hides this hairline gap between the case and the bezel as you expect that gap to be there as you know they are two piece, rather than one.
So how accurate is Calibre 16? Generally, people talk about -5 seconds to +10 seconds a day to be the ‘normal’ or acceptable range. My watch seems gain 5 seconds a day or 35 seconds per week or 2 minutes 30 seconds increase per month. Many people who appreciate mechanical movements seems to be okay with adjusting their watches every week or so. The big question is, after spending AUD$3,000+ or USD$2,000+ on a watch, can YOU live with this ‘inaccuracy’? That is the question you have to ask yourself before considering any mechanical watches. If you want accuracy above all else, Quartz watches are said to only lose or gain 1 to 2 seconds per month and best of all, much cheaper.
If you have decided to embrace Horology and decided to appreciate the intricacies of cogs and springs working together to keep time, read on.
Now to the actual review of Tag Heuer Link Automatic Chronograph. It is the one with black face. It also comes in white (which I considered but decided against it for it being too dressy), blue and teal (light greenish).
What might also surprise people who are new to automatic chronographs is that the ‘second’ arm/hand that normally rotate does not move. Instead, it is the left-most sub-dial that tells seconds. The main ‘second’ arm/hand is used for chronograph function (stop watch). I have heard of people who didn’t like this and used the chronograph function in time with the actual ‘second’ hand!!
You can’t tell from the photo of Link Automatic Chronograph but in the middle of the face, there is a BMW like logo imprinted on the face. I am not a big fan of this part but it is growing on me now. Also, what the photo can not show you (unless taken from an angle) is the depth of the face. It is beautifully inclined where the tachymetre numbers are printed, rather then a vertical drop or a cylinder like cut.
The sapphire crystal glass is pretty tough. As I wear it everyday, I had my fair share of bumps. Once I was trying to put something apart with force and it suddenly snapped smashing my watch face on to the tiled wall. I was sure it would have scratched it but not a mark. In fact, I have more marks around the stainless steel bezel than on the glass. What you can’t tell is that the glass on Link is convex (as mentioned before) and therefore I was worried that it will be easier to scratch than a flat glass. That might be the case still but sapphire crystal seems to be pretty tough. By the way, it is a synthetic sapphire that is also shatter resistant.
As I was new to automatic chronograph, I was surprised that chronograph buttons were so stiff. I guess it is mechanical after all. The crown is screw in type, as you expect from a 200m watch and nothing special about it other than to say that the manual winder is unidirectional so you have to turn clock-wise to wind it up. Turning anti-clock will just free spin. This is also the case with automatic winder inside the watch. You can feel it spinning in one direction freely and you can hear the ratchet like winding noise when turning the other way. Some people have noticed this free spinning weight and call it the ‘wobble’. I can’t say I have noticed it when wearing normally. But I might not be as sensitive to those things!! : )
The bracelet is very Tag Heuer trade mark design. It has been freshened up a bit with angels when compared with my old S/EL. And best of all, it is not gold! You just can not wear gold watches casually with T-shirt and shorts can you? This was the main reason why I decided to buy another watch – any excuse will do really!! : ) The double locking clasp is also much shorter (about half the length of the old S/EL) and therefore much less visual. The clasp only takes up about one full length of a link (14mm).